Kefalonia is the biggest and one of the most popular islands of the Ionian group, The Island is best known for its stunningly beautiful, and often mysterious natural features that have provided rich material for centuries of legend. The scenery is breathtaking, and includes the tallest island mountain in Greece, Mount Enos, which is surrounded by some of Greece’s most beautiful protected national parks and of course there’s the beaches that captivated the imaginations of so many people from the film ‘Captain Corelli’s Mandolin.’


Myrtos Beach

The beaches of Kefalonia deserve a special mention – these are the beaches that most of us visualise when we think about Greek islands. Blessed with fine sand and turquoise, waters that sparkle in the many hours of sunshine that the island basks in, they are a tourist draw of the highest order...although it can get incredibly busy on some of the most popular beaches, which ruins the tranquil ambience somewhat.

A paradise for nature lovers, Kefalonia enjoys some unique features that make it even more alluring. There’s a rare fir tree that only grow on this island, wild horses on the mountainside, and goats and rabbits that have bizarre golden teeth, due to their mineral rich diet. The seas around the island are full of treasures too, with the loggerhead turtles (Caretta Caretta) dolphins and monk seal. Kefalonia’s pristine waters are some of the cleanest in the world.


Loggerhead Turtle

History
Kefalonia is mentioned in Homer's Iliad and Odyssey, where he called it Deuchalion, and said it belonged to the Kingdom of Odysseus. Cephali means ‘head’ in Greek, and legend also has it that the first king was called Cephalus, but nobody knows for sure where the Greek name Cephalonia originated. Excavations that have taken place on the island show it could well have been inhabited for over 50,000 years. The island was once physically linked to Ithaca and the mainland.

During Mycenaean times Kefalonia was very rich. The island made some clever alliances with several other city-states like Athens, Corinth and Sparta, until the good fortunes ran out in 188 BC when the Romans conquered the island, selling the inhabitants as slaves. As with many of the Greek islands, Kefalonia was also plagued with many pirate attacks throughout history.

Kefalonia has changed hands an inordinate amount of times! At the end of the 12th century the Francs conquered all of the Ionian Islands, and stayed there until the 15th century when the Ottomans took over. Venetian rule followed from 1500 to 1797. There were a few more attempts from the Turks at taking over Kefalonia and some of the other islands, then in 1797 Napoleon’s army invaded. The following year the British helped the Russians and Turkish army take over. In 1807, the French returned to Kefalonia and two years later the British seized power.

In 1864 the island was finally liberated, becoming united with the rest of Greece again, although was occupied by Italian and German military for a short time during the Second World War.

In 1953 there was a massive earthquake which devastated the island, killing many of the inhabitants and decimating the buildings. Only Fiscardo in the north was saved and is today the only village on the island with the heartbreakingly poignant evidence of life before the earthquake, in the old-style architecture.

Getting There
There are daily flights to Kefalonia airport from Athens on the mainland, and charter flights regular fly to the island from Europe. The airport is situated just outside of Argostoli.

Ferry services run from Patra, Kylini, and Ithaca into Argostoli, Sami, and Poros. During the summer there is a daily ferry service which connects Fiscardo to Vasiliki in Lefkada, as well as ferry boat connections to Italy.

Nightlife
Most of the nightlife in Kefalonia is centred on the town of Argostoli, which has plenty of bars, pubs and clubs to choose from. Other areas worth checking out include Sami, Lixouri, Skala, Poros and Fiscardo, but they aren’t quite as lively as Argostoli.


Argostoli

Kefalonia doesn’t have a reputation as a wild party island, but the nightlife is still pretty good, with a bit of an Italian flavour due to the high concentration of Italian holidaymakers. The organised beach parties can also be great fun.

Food
There are lots of great restaurants to choose from, and because the island is geared up for tourism, there’s plenty of variety – genuine tavernas serving traditional Greek specialities, international cuisine and fast food.

Specialities of Kefalonia include a pita pie, the bourbourelia (mixed bean soup), skorthali or aliatha (mashed potatoes with garlic sauce), rabbit stew, strapatsado (eggs with tomatoes), or riganada (bread with oregano).
The island is also famous for its pastries and sweets, including galaktoboureko (a custard pastry), confetto (baked quince), aniseed biscuits, caramelised almonds, pastelli (a sweet made of caramelised sesame seeds) and amygthalopita (almond cake).

Money
The Greek currency is the Euro. For the latest exchange rates visit www.xe.com You can exchange all foreign currencies at banks on the island banks, or bureaux de change, but keep an eye on the exchange rates as they tend to fluctuate from one bank to another. All of the major credit cards are widely accepted, as are traveller’s cheques in most currencies.

Greek banks charge a flat commission rate for cashing traveller's cheques, and you can avoid extra fees by taking them in Euros, Pounds Sterling or US Dollars.

Banks are generally open from 8:00am to 2:30pm Mondays to Thursdays, and close at 2:00pm on Fridays

Shopping
The shops on the island tend to be a little basic, mostly selling local produce, souvenirs and jewellery. Most of the shops are in Argostoli, on Lithostratos Street, a pedestrianised shopping area flanked with some interesting shops, the usual tourist havens and cafes, as well as the local post office and banks.
The best souvenirs to indulge yourself with are probably the locally-produced wines or the local honey that’s called ‘golden honey’. Although it’s not exactly a shopping paradise, you’ll still be able to pick up the usual souvenirs and jewellery. In Fiscardo you'll also find some smaller shops with crafts and tourist items and artists selling their work by the harbour.

Where to Go

Argostoli
Argostoli is the largest town in Kefalonia, the capital and main port of the island. This town has been the capital of the island since 1757 and stands on the far end of the bay surrounded by mountains and forests. It was once home to some delightful Venetian buildings which were destroyed along with the rest of Argostoli in1953.


Argostoli


The town was rebuilt with the help of the Greek government but unlike neighbouring Zakynthos, the traditional architectural style hasn’t been preserved.

Throughout the summer, Argostoli is the ideal place for taking a volta, or evening stroll. One of the most popular places for a long, relaxing walk is the esplanade of King George II Avenue, popular with walkers and just for socialising. The locals love to befriend people en route, and stop off for a coffee in one of the restaurants overlooking the city’s main square.

Argostoli is a busy town. The central square, Plateia Valianou is a picturesque square populated with restaurants, cafes and bars, which gets pretty crowded in the summer months, while the pedestrianised Lithostroto Street is the commercial centre of the capital and is full of shops. There are some beautiful buildings in the town, too, including the gorgeous church of Saint Spyridon and the clock tower in Campana Square.

While you’re there, it’s also worth seeing the Archaeological Museum of Kefalonia which is full of interesting finds from the Mycenaean, Hellenistic and Roman periods, packed with fascinating examples of genuine coins, swords, sculptures and ceramics.

Another stop on the museum trail is the Korgialenios History and Folklore Museum, housed in the ground floor of the Korgialenian Library. There you’ll find a recreated traditional 19th century Kefalonian house as well as a collection of absorbing photographs of the island.

The imposing library holds over 50,000 books and some very old and some rare manuscripts. There’s also a beautiful theatre in Argostoli, the theatre of Kefalos, which is considered to be one of the best theatres in Greece.


Place to relax in Sami

Sami
Sami is the closest beach resort to the capital, set back into in an area of incredible beauty made even better by the impressive hills, caves, underground lakes and monasteries all close by and within easy day trip distance.

It’s popular with tourists, which means there are plenty of nice taverns, cafes, lively bars and shops to visit as well as the other attractions. Sami is the second busiest port on Kefalonia with regular ferries to Corfu, Ithaca, Patras and Italy. It’s a charming little town with a long waterfront that’s lined with restaurants and tavernas that like to make the best use of the locally caught fish of the day.

As well as the harbour, there are many sand & shingle beaches along the coast from Sami to Agia Efimia, secluded coves and sheltered beaches.
Sami is where most of the filming for Captain Corelli's Mandolin took place, and there was once a replica of pre-earthquake Argostoli built in the main square, but sadly for film buffs, no evidence of the sets is left.

Fiscardo
Fiscardo is around 50 kilometres from Argostoli and is the northernmost port of Kefalonia. You can see Ithaca from the port on a good day.

This picturesque fishing village is mainly famous for being one of the very few villages on the island that wasn’t destroyed by the earthquake. All the traditional Venetian architecture has been preserved and this stroke of geological good luck means that the town is imbued with a special charm that brings visitors from all across the island. The Greek authorities are keen to keep this unique feel, and all the buildings in the town are subject to a preservation order.

If you take a quick stroll around the harbour you can gasp at some of the luxury yachts, owned by the rich and famous that flock to Kefalonia and soak up the tranquillity of Fiscardo

Fiscardo takes on an entirely different personality at night, when it sparkles with twinkling lights and has a cosmopolitan Mediterranean feel.


Assos

Assos
Part of the charm of Assos probably lies in its simplicity. Assos is a tiny rustic village, with only around 100 inhabitants, but it’s home to some fine examples of Venetian architecture that were common on Kefalonia before the earthquake. There’s also a collection of sophisticated houses, a few villas and apartments, some quiet tavernas and a mini-market. Assos is around 36 kilometres from Argostoli and is built on a small peninsula. The traditional and charming atmosphere of the village is enhanced by narrow alleyways and the delightful little tavernas perched on the quayside overlooking the bay.

The remains of the 16th century Venetian castle dominate the village which nestles in a horse-shoe shaped harbour.

A stay in Assos will appeal to you if you love walking, photography, painting, or bird-watching and it will be heaven on earth for lovers of rugged coastal and mountain scenery. The relaxed pace of life is perfect for anyone who needs to unwind, kick back and forget all about life back home

What to See
There’s plenty to see on this heavenly island, and a stay on Kefalonia will not disappoint lovers of nature, history or scenery. You can book a tour of the island which will usually include the Drogarati caves and the Melissani underground lake, as well as the monastery of St. Gerasimos, Fiscardo and Myrtos bay.

The Venetian Castle of St George
The Venetian castle of St George is perched high on a hillside. It was mostly built in the Byzantine age and its main purpose was to shelter the villagers from the constant attacks by marauding pirates. The final touches were added by the Venetians.

It’s a really exciting castle, as unlike some of the Greek castles, it’s safe to wander the ancient rooms and feel the history. There are some displays that give some background to the castle’s past, and there are some fabulous panoramic views. It’s worth visiting the castle at sunset to see the island below turn golden in the fading light.


The Cave of Melissani

The Cave of Melissani
Situated just outside Sami, the cave of Melissani has an ethereal appeal. It is one of the most significant tourist attractions of the Greek islands, replete in mystery and the extreme weirdness of a cave that has a lake inside it surrounded by trees and forests. Legend has it that the cave was named after the nymph Melissanthi who committed suicide because her love for the Greek God Pan was not reciprocated.

The cave has two chambers separated by a central island. When the sun is right overhead at noon, the sunlight hits the turquoise-blue waters and creates a stunning visual effect that lights up the entire cave with beautiful blue light.

The second chamber is dark, filled with eerie stalactites that are covered with algae and moss. These are huge but still dwarfed by the huge dome of the cave. The water enters the cave at one end and flows out from the other, constantly replenished by gushing springs. You simply cannot visit Kefalonia without marvelling at the sheer beauty and atmosphere of what are quite possibly the most bizarre caves you’ll ever encounter.

The Drogarati Cave
The Drogarti cave is a popular tourist haunt that lies 5km south of Sami on the eastern coast of Kefalonia. It was discovered 300 years ago and has been open to the public since 1963. It’s another impressive cave with remarkable stalactite and stalagmite formations. It’s thought to be about 150 million years old.

Drogarati Cave consists of two parts, one of which is accessible to visitors. The long corridor leads to the Royal Balcony, which is a natural platform made up of stalactites. You can also see the Chamber of Exaltation, which has some amazing acoustics, and because of this it’s sometimes used to host cultural events. There’s a small lake inside the cave that you have to cross to get from one part to the other.


The ruined church in Mazarakata

Mazarakata Tombs
If you pay a visit to the eerie Mazarakata tombs you can take the opportunity to stroll along past the ancient graves that are decorated with beautiful wild flowers. Excavated in 1908, these ancient burial chambers were once filled with decorative clay pots, tiles, glassware and gold plates, which you can now see at the Archaeological Museum of Argostoli.

Al that remains to see now is the tombs. The area is calm and tranquil, and this makes it an ideal place to spend a few hours relaxing, exploring or simply wondering at the history of the island.

Mount Ainos
If you’re feeling especially energetic, drive to the gates of Mount Ainos national park, and hike to the peak for a picnic. Although the mountain is the third highest in Greece, it’s not a difficult climb and the well trodden footpaths are in good condition. It’ll take you around three hours to reach the peak, and on the way you’re likely to encounter some of the 20 or so wild horses that roam here. You might also see buzzards and owls, Griffon vultures, and various types of falcon.

In the summer, breeze is cool and provides some respite from the heat that bakes the lower regions of the island. Snow settles atop the mountains through May, while the coastal areas are still hitting 30-degrees.

The Lighthouse of Saint Theodoroi
The lighthouse of Saint Theodoroi is close to Katavothres and Argostoli, and stands proud on a man-made peninsula. It has a rather simple architectural style, and was originally built in 1828 by the British administrator Charles Napier, who ruled the island.

The earthquake of 1953 destroyed the original lighthouse, but it was rebuilt in 1960 by local architect Takis Pavlatos and lovingly restored according to its original design. The lighthouse still works till today and it’s a romantic place to walk around in the evening.

The De Bosset Bridge
The De Bosset Bridge or De Bosset Causeway is the largest stone bridge on a sea water body, built in 1813 when the Swiss engineer Charles Philippe De Bosset was employed by the British Army.

Argostoli lies on the narrow Fanari peninsula which projects out from the Argostoli Gulf, and was once the focal point for trade and commerce on in the island. Argostoli was separated from mainland Kefalonia by an inlet, so the British decided to link the two sides of the inlet at its narrowest part by building a wooden bridge from the southern harbour side of Argostoli to Drapano, a small village across the water.

The De-Bosset Bridge was completed in two weeks but the swift construction left it weak and it had to be rebuilt in 1842. As you pass the bridge you can see the obelisk of carved rocks rising out of the called ‘Kolona’. Kolona was built to show the Kefalonian Parliament’s gratitude to Great Britain, and was inscribed with “To the glory of the British Empire” although when the Brits left, the inscription was surreptitiously changed! The inscription has been changed more than once since, depending on the current rulers of Kefalonia. The earthquake damaged the bridge although it, and the obelisk survived. Both needed major restoration.

Koutavos lagoon, created as result of the bridge, has become a breeding site for the island’ Loggerhead turtle population and the salt marshes and the shallow water have made the site a sanctuary for many types of marine bird.

Churches
Kefalonia is sprinkled with countless charming churches and impressive monasteries. Many of these feature unique frescoes and are linked to ancient Greek legends. Some of the best examples include the Monastery of St. Gerasimos and the temple of Our Lady at Markopoulo - where swarms of tiny snakes make an appearance between August 6 and 15. These snakes are fascinating to watch - and totally harmless.

Loggerhead Turtles
You’ll have to be patient but if you want to see one of the island’s most magical sights, the summer months of June to August are the best months to spot the female loggerhead turtles which come ashore to nest and lay eggs along the western and southern beaches of Kefalonia. The best places to see these creatures are to be found along the coastline from the Skala area right up to Agios Kiriaki.

Mounda Beach is another popular turtle watching spot, as the females like to wander up onto the sands of these beaches to lay their eggs. The turtles are well loved and protected by the locals, so there are signs asking visitors to flatten any sandcastles and fill in any holes the kids have been digging, before they leave the beach so as not to disorientate the turtles. If you hang around until nightfall, you could even see the cutest little baby turtles when they dig their way out, and make their way down to the sea shore.

What to Do
Sporty types will love Kefalonia for the myriad of water sports that are on offer at many of the busier beaches, some of the best examples of which include Makrys Gialos, Platys Gialos and Skala. In Skala you can also try your hand at horse riding.

Just outside Argostoli there is a Go-Kart track as well as a square closer to the town centre where the children can go to play about on mini cars and motorbikes. There is also an outdoor cinema just off the main square. For adventure seekers, there’s also a diving school at Ag Efimia where you can take a few lessons and indulge your curiosity.


Assos Coast

The Beaches
Two of the best and most sandy beaches are in Lassi and are called Makrys Gialos and Platys Gialos beach. These two gorgeous beaches are popular because they are a paradise for children and families, but because of this they get quite busy during high season.

Myrtos is quite probably one of the most photographed beaches in Greece but the road that leads down to it is incredibly steep, and you'll have to either walk all the way down or rent a car to take you as none of the buses or taxis will touch it! The beach there is pebbled and the water is quite deep in places, so it is not the best place to take small children.

In Skala there is another long sandy beach that’s well worth a visit on a warm, lazy afternoon, and In Fiscardo you will have to negotiate the rocks first but if you do you’ll get the benefit of some absolutely beautiful crystal clear waters.
Another beach that’s not to be missed is the paradise beach of Antisami, which is outside Sami. You’ll have to get there on foot as there are no bus connections on the island that will take you there.

Captain Corelli’s Mandolin
Kefalonia was buzzing with actors and film crews in the summer of 2000 as Nicholas Cage, Penelope Cruz and John Hurt were in residence while filming Captain Corelli’s Mandolin – the film of the story by Louis de Bernieres.

Most of the filming took place in Sami and the surrounding hills. The old town was recreated especially for filming. The exposure Kefalonia received as a result of the film meant an increase in the number of tourists that visit every year.